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Chat Area => Archives => Topic started by: FreeSoil_Fooser on April 02, 2009, 06:09:24 PM
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So I have an old Tornado Storm II that is getting rough. It has the cheaper style bearings (not split bearings), and .125" bars. I don't have the money to buy a new table, but I was thinking of upgrading it. Is this possible?
I plan on buying a replacement set of split bearings and a full set of .156" bars. Does anyone know if the bearing holes on the tables are the same? Can I put split bearings in the snap-in bearing holes?
Thanks a lot for the help.
Also how do I find out about tournaments and stuff? I always get word like 2 weeks after.
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not sure about the split bearing fitting, I think I remember they do not, someone will know for sure
money better spent on rod upgrade on the 2 and 3 bar, the new men (counter-balanced), the new side-strips, new balls, and silicone...
not cheap to do all this but less than a new used coin-op and you can do it in stages...2 and 3 bar your side first, new men on one side and really you could get away without doing the 3 goalie guys if money is tight, side strips are $25 and can be added any time....balls and silicone should be purchased frist no matter what
have you used anything on the rods while you have had the table? either way, if you get knew men, when you break down the rods clean everything really well
oh, and you can consider adding weight to the table, people will have ideas on that, but weight makes a big playing difference and it is something you should be able to do cheap
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Actually the table has counterweighted men on it already, and the side strips are still held down and completely intact.
I get new balls once a year and always keep silicone under the table. The table has been taken care of by me since day one, so it's not falling apart or anything. I just want to beef it up to stay consistent with my level of play.
I was thinking... the players are the same for my table and a t-2000. This means that the bars are the same diameter and should fit just fine.
The only thing to figure out now is if the split bearings will fit in the holes.
Hmm maybe i'll just borrow a friends bearing to check if it fits. Although just buying one will probably be less of a hassle.
I actually helped with an event at a small tournament and got a new warrior ball as a gift. Anybody know where I can buy these in bulk? I can only get 1 at a time at the warrior site.
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So I checked an online store that had dimensions for the bearings, and the outside dimensions are exactly the same for both Storm II and T-2000 etc.
for anyone who wants to know....
bearing outside diameter=1-1/4"
bearing width=1-1/2"
as was said before the rods have the same diameter for the .125" and .156"
sweet, new bearings and rods here I come!
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Won't the side wall thickness be an issue with the split bearings? I'm not sure, but I think the side wall thickness is different from the home models to the coin op models, and would make the bearings not fit. Am I crazy to think this?
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well i thought about that too, but if the current bearings in the table are 1-1/2" wide, and the new ones are 1-1/2" wide, then they should fit right?
both types of bearings have the exact same dimensions, they are just built differently.
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Ok. I mis understood the measurements you took. If they'll fit the rod hole diameter and the wall thickness, then I'd say you're golden and it sounds like a good upgrade to me.
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Hi all. Brand new to the site (and to the game in general)
I just started playing at the bar I work at about 7 months ago and got really interested and excited about foosball. I found a Tornado Whirlwind II on craiglist and (since I am a poor college kid) bought it for $100. It is in fantastic condition, just like new and I've already changed out all the men to counter-balanced; the biggest problem now seems to be weight, it just isn't heavy enough to support really rigorous play. Anyone have any good suggestions on adding additional weight (evenly) to this table?
Thanks!!
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I have an old school home model with the large chrome feet which is not a split cabinet. Not sure if the bottom of your cabinet is the same as mine, but on the bottom of mine is a lip or ledge that goes around the whole table. What I did to mine was get 4 small rectangular cake pans and fill them with nuts and bolts and taped over the top to keep them in. Then took a bracket and bent into an L shape and screwed the pans to the ledge on the bottom side. Added close to a 100 pounds and worked fine.
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I think what I'm gonna do for weight is fasten something (maybe some angle iron or something similar) to the legs. that seemed the easiest thing to do and probably the least stressful for the cabinet of the table.
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I do not beleave the bearings are interchangable. The slip bearings are any better than the snap-in bearings when new.
Here is a pic of a split bearing , notice the wings that create stud to prevent the bearing from spinning when two halves are put together.
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2311/2226626693_6efba5081e.jpg?v=0)
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Don't buy the bearings because they won't fit. Been there done that.
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well crap. :(
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The snap-in bearings work fine. Install a fresh set and you will see. Go to a fabric store and buy a piece of Vinyl to cover your table when not in use and those bearings will last for years. make sure you get a piece that hangs over a couple feet.
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The snap-in bearings work fine. Install a fresh set and you will see. Go to a fabric store and buy a piece of Vinyl to cover your table when not in use and those bearings will last for years. make sure you get a piece that hangs over a couple feet.
Hmmm... interesting. Sounds like those snap-in bearings must be made of a material that dries out and become brittle, perhaps even actually dissipating, like styrofoam which actually evaporates, albeit at a much slower rate. Putting a non-porous draping like vinyl, would definitely cut any ambient air flow.
So Ed, is that what you or someone you know has experienced? The plastic or whatever composite they use for those bearings are akin to styrofoam or even saran wrap, which most people don't realize as very low volatility "solids"? Otherwise I can't see any other reasons for a vinyl wrap that would shut off any convection draft or ambient air flow at the bearings....
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Orrrrr..
mebbe the snap-in material attracts the "Grays" on a dark night, like flies to rotting flesh, and you could be abducted by those party-pooping aliens before you have a chance to win that World Unification Tornado-Warrior-Bonzini championship.
;D :D :D ;) :)
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The snap-in bearings work fine. Install a fresh set and you will see. Go to a fabric store and buy a piece of Vinyl to cover your table when not in use and those bearings will last for years. make sure you get a piece that hangs over a couple feet.
Hmmm... interesting. Sounds like those snap-in bearings must be made of a material that dries out and become brittle, perhaps even actually dissipating, like styrofoam which actually evaporates, albeit at a much slower rate. Putting a non-porous draping like vinyl, would definitely cut any ambient air flow.
So Ed, is that what you or someone you know has experienced? The plastic or whatever composite they use for those bearings are akin to styrofoam or even saran wrap, which most people don't realize as very low volatility "solids"? Otherwise I can't see any other reasons for a vinyl wrap that would shut off any convection draft or ambient air flow at the bearings....
Dust settles on the rods when not in use then gets pulled into the bearings. The snap in bearings are a pain to change-out so keeping dust out of them should keep the table at top performance for a longer period of time. Yes that is what covers my table at home, it is amazing how much better it plays when not exposed to the air for 3 or 4 days between. I try to practice before a tour event with fast rods and slow balls. I have found for me it is easier to adjust to a fast slick ball than a slow sticky one.
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i find if I play on my table everyday for a hour or more, which I do, then there is never an issue...on my side of the table 8)