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Chat Area => Archives => Topic started by: amblock on May 27, 2009, 03:40:54 PM
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Hi,
I just bought a cherry coin op for $575. It had been sitting in the unfinished basement of a bar, not being used and collecting excessive dust/dirt for several years. I have cleaned it up substantially and it looks pretty good except for one thing.
I think the table is warped. When I drop the foosball, or even a golf ball, in the center of the table between the 5 bars, the ball stays fine. When I drop the ball on either side between the 5 bars however, it rolls toward the middle. I have read though many posts here and see that a fix has been posted for fixing more recent "cupped" table tops. That fix will not work with my table; the inside is configured differently. Has anyone else run into this problem before? Is there a fix out there? I would not say the warping is horribly bad; usually when I pin the ball it will stay, but nonetheless any warping is is annoying.
I am thinking that installing something underneath the center of the playing surface to "prop it up" might help, but before I go experimenting, please let me know if you know of any "proven" method.
Thanks,
Adam
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no one?
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amblock,
I figured someone who had actually done something similar would reply. However, I have a 2 year old T-2000 that has a very simple method of providing support to the top. It came this way from the tournament I bought it from, I dont' know if it is as factory built or something they did at the tournament to solve a problem. In any case, after adjustment my table rolls true and it is from a time when many were complining about "warped" tops.
Looking inside the table see the two boards that run the length of the table, from goal to goal and form the sides of the ball return. On my table they are particle board placed on edge. On the top edge of each of these boards (about 1/2 inch wide) there is a phillips head wood screw. Nothing special, but the top of the head is flat and about 1/4 inch in diameter. One is placed on the right edge of the ball return hole in the side of the table, the one in the other board is on the left edge.
If you add such, screw them all the way down then back them out until they just touch the bottom of the playing field. Use a lump of putty or piece of wadded up bread to see when it is squishing after you close the top. Don't go too far too fast, I hear you can poke a hole if it is way up. Mine are about 1/2 to 3/4 inch high, but that is just memory and your table may have much closer or completly different dimensions. Once you are close, a quarter turn at a time, some playing and leg leveling in between should get you where you need to be. Just a little support.
Maybe four screws would be even better, two on each side, but mine worked fine and frankly I was damn tired of adjusting just the two by the time I was done.
BillV
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awesome, will try this tonight. Thanks!
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bill,
i have located these two boards. they are actually attached on their top edge to the bottle of the playing field ( the playing field rests on top of them). so, i am a bit confused where the screws would go. when you said "one is placed on the right edge of the ball return hole in the side of the table, the one in the other board is on the left edge."...do the screws go parrallel to the ground or perpandicular to the ground. When first reading this i envisioned perpandicular but since the playing field is on top of these boards i cannot place a screw on their top edge perpandicular to the ground (with point of the screw facing down).
am i missing something or is my table configured differently?
thanks,
adam
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Sounds like your table is configured differently. On mine there is nothing attached to the bottom of the playfield so when I adjust the screws the playfield rests directly on the head of the screw. The screws are point down, perpendicular to the ground. Screwing them out (up) raises the center of the playfield.
Maybe you could add something similar but lower down, that the two boards attached to the bottom would rest on. Since your problem is the ball rolling towards the middle from the sides, holding the boards up slightly (if I understand correctly how yours are installed) might help.
Sorry it could not be used the same way.
Bill
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another question for anyone else out there. I just received the parts I ordered from Charles McIntosh. Since my table is a coin-op I ordered the split hexoganol bearings, but it turns out that these are not the same bearings as on my table. Mine look like the cheaper Storm bearings (much smaller, round on the inside, and with the little feet that splay out to keep it in place).
So i am questioning what model my table is. I thought it was a cherry-colored T-2000, but then it would have the hexagonal bearings, right? I will add pictures and serial number tonight, but table is cherry wood in color, is coin op, and has four "coasters" on each corner with the tornado logo. Also, the balls that came with it are the red ones that resemble cherry tomatoes.
Any ideas what this is?
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post some pictures...I don't know any Cherry's that had ashtrays...also, the split hex has been used forever...if it is a coin op, maybe someone modified it
on a warped top, the Cherry never had that issue or any other table except recently...before you go trying to fix it, have you done the work to make sure the table itself was level..you know, using a level and not dropping balls...i may have missed it but I didn't catch that this was done
when you take pictures, take pics under the lid two, it will make talking about the leveling easiler
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Thanks for the reply. I will post pictures tonight. I do not think the warped issue was as bad as i thought, and perhaps it was more a "warped red balls" issue. With the new tornado balls, I no longer have to deal with the ball rolling away.
Are those "coaster" looking plastic items on the corners ashtrays?
Also, the person who sold it to me claimed it was a cyclone. I never bothered to correct him b/c I thought he was wrong since it is a coin op. Where there every any cyclone coin ops made? what about storm coin ops?
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And yes, I did go through the levelling with the feet of the table...although my floor might be cupped, I dont know.
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the Cyclone does have the 4 "round things" cup holders or whatever but the Cyclone is not a coin-op and is not a split top and is not a T2000 and I am not certain they ever made a Cherry Cyclone
so I am more confused than ever, lets get some pictures up
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just got home from work and posted pictures. please help me identify this mysterious tornado coin op!
(http://s556.photobucket.com/albums/ss8/amblock/)
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here is the link (posting with image button did not work)
http://s556.photobucket.com/albums/ss8/amblock/
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(http://i556.photobucket.com/albums/ss8/amblock/DSCF1220.jpg)
(http://i556.photobucket.com/albums/ss8/amblock/DSCF1218.jpg)
(http://i556.photobucket.com/albums/ss8/amblock/DSCF1216.jpg)
(http://i556.photobucket.com/albums/ss8/amblock/DSCF1223.jpg)
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well, the surface says Tornado but it isn't any coin op I have ever seen...I have seen all the coin ops going back to the brown marble which takes you back 15-20 years...you can see a coin op table history I have posted before
http://www.foosball.com/forum/index.php?topic=2331.msg10482#msg10482
the coin mechanism is totally different
the bearings are significantly different and the split bearing has been around a very long time
Cabinet is not a "Cherry" but looks like a Cyclone but I have never heard of a coin op Cyclone
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The inside of the lower cabinet looks like a Shelti ProFoos III Coin-op. Is there a Tornado ID Plate located on the endwall (White endboard, left of the goal opening)?
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no such ID plate. Hmm...is this a counterfeit? i could see modifying a non coin-op to accept quarters, but that would mean converting to a split top as well....seems a bit far fetched. Is there a databae anywhere of tornado serial numbers? If not, maybe i will call valley and see if they can shed some light on it.
(http://i556.photobucket.com/albums/ss8/amblock/DSCF1211.jpg)
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Mystery solved, thanks to Charles Mackintosh:
"The table you have is a tornado table, but a bit of an unusual one. For a few years Tornado produced a cheaper version of their standard coin op in the mid nineties. That is the one you have as indicated by the color, bearings, and interior design."
Anybody heard of this?
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never...new news
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just heard back from an email I sent to Cathy Lauria at Valley, who confirmed what Charles Mackintosh informed me. Apparently the model in question is a T-1000. I must admit I am a bit disappointed that I don't have a top of the line table, but I find it pretty cool to have such a "rare" specimen of a tornado table!
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important thing is how much did you pay and did the seller say it was a T2000 or was that your assumption since it was a coin op
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Hey amblock!
What's with the white and red rags at both goals? I'm sure you could set the rack to free play... Is there a baby in the house? (For Quiet Play)
I always enjoyed the uproariously good sounds of slamming goals on Tornado's.
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the rags are primarily for noise; i just moved to a new apartment and don't want the neighbor's complaining!
I paid $575 for it; the seller claimed it was a cyclone. I just assumed he didn't know what he was talking about since it was coin-op. If i had known it was a T-1000 i'm sure i could have knocked the price down a bit. But if i had to do it all over again i would buy the same table since I already had a moving van rented for my apartment move.