Topic: hi all new member!

[nason]

hi all I recently just bought a tornado twister 2 from a local person here in OH for 350 cash, it plays and rolls well and is my first serious table.  I really enjoy the table though one thing concerns me, danny veghs supposedly installed the rods, players etc.  But after watching some professional tournament clips it appears they installed the rods, sides, and goalies incorrectly.  I currently have a 2 man goalie on both ends and a 3man offense and instead of winding your shots counter clockwise towards a goal you shoot clockwise which seriously decreases power.  I have checked it out online and it sure enough is all backwards according to where the center tornado logo is on the table and which colors are supposed to be facing where.  I was wondering if anyone could post an instructional guide on how to take out all the rods and arrange them back correctly, like I said it was this way one I bought it and I sure hope I can get it set up correctly.  I appreciate all help and look forward to checkin out the forums!

[foozkillah]

Nason,

If your post isn't a practical joke, then you're in for some pain.. busted nuckle or two rearranging your rods and player figures.

And you need to find out the seller's pharmacist or local recreational drug supplier, for a rainy day.

[Syronis]

Obviously a table set up by the Hamas militants!  Now in retaliation you'll have to blow up your table, as well as all surrounding infrastructure.

Or at least do some annoying rearranging. I do not envy you

Best of Luck.

[papafoos]

Sounds like the guys at our local Sears set up your table.

I'm assuming the men are facing in the wrong direction and the rods in the wrong positions.
By that, I mean if you hold the rod the men face to the left.

Remove all the men from the rods.  No need to take off the handles.  Place the rods in their proper positions.  Yellow men go on the coin side, or in this case, the side that shows the logo upright.  The five row goes to the left of the serving hole.  The two man rod goes two spots to the left of that.  The three man rods will have different spacing of the men.  The 3-rod with the shortest distance between the men go to the forward position.  The 3-rod with the longest distance between the men goes to the goalie position.  Just rearrange the men so they face to the right when you are holding the handle.

[bbtuna]

shoot, that sucks...well, nothing a hour or so can't fix

you need a hammer and a counter sink that will fit the roll pin hole (unless you got a roll pin punch wiht the table)...it would help if you had a couple extra roll pins too in case there are any broken pins

you have video so you can see how the men should go but as you face the table with the Tornado logo looking at you it goes

left to right (as stated earlier, yellow men on this side)

see this link for which color which side and what direction the men should face
http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://farm1.static.flickr.com/15/19195260_a2346996d2.jpg%3Fv%3D0&imgrefurl=http://flickr.com/photos/yarwood/19195260/&usg=__zs8zHBOjkKXTtgyb14oohd-jXP8=&h=375&w=500&sz=43&hl=en&start=50&um=1&tbnid=_EL5ZY4fot0o9M:&tbnh=98&tbnw=130&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dtornado%2Bfoosball%2Btable%2Bpictures%26start%3D40%26ndsp%3D20%26um%3D1%26hl%3Den%26sa%3DN


goalie rod (3 man)* , 2 man rod (long rod) , skip next hole that is for opposing side 5 man, then 5 man rod (short rod) , then skip next hole which is for opposing 5 man, then 3 man (right hand shooting rod)* final 2 holes are for opposing goalie

* note that both the goalie and 3 man have 3 men but they are not the same rod...I am not certain off the top of my head, but if I remember right, I believe the goalie rod is shorter

if someone doesn't tell you before I get home, I will check and tell you the difference...this is obviously crucial to get right

it you can place a block of wood under the rods while you hammer out the roll pins that will help keep from bending the rods but it isn't really the end of the world...I have changed a ton of men and almost never used something under the rod so if you are careful you should be okay

I don't know how they put the bumpers on but given the fact they don't know anything, some of the bumpers are likely wrong as well
the bumper has one side with holes and one side without holes....you want the side with holes to face outward toward the side of the table...so the holes are the part of the bumper which bumps the table

as long as you have the rods off, you might as well clean them with hot water and a clean cloth...same with the bearings (the black holes they slide through on the table)

good luck and let us know how it goes

Here are a couple of sites you should know
http://www.thisweekinfoosball.net/  , Carlos takes amature video of the world of foos and does a great job keeping up with whats happening in foosball

http://www.insidefoos.com/  , InsideFoos is the only full time "professional" video of foosball and it covers the US and now international play...they go quite a few years back now ... Carlos is free and is more like a news service where this is quality video of the best foosball in the world since the early 90's
here is an example and this will show you how your men should go as well

Both of these short clips are 2008 World Championships...one doubles and the other singles

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7PPOaeyrL0A
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DAeSaJgcdcc

[nason]

thanks for all the help, yeah it stinks and I knew something was wrong, guess Im gonna have to pop all the men off and switch around the rounds considering it's totally set up backwards, I cant believe tho danny veghs would set it up like that but I believe the seller who sold 2 me so, looks like it's up to me now once again thanx for the help guys!

[nason]

hey bbtuna I see what your saying about the bumpers, sure enough a bunch of those are installed wrong 2, only a few have the holes facing towards the white outer boards or walls, Im sure this is hurting game play as well!

[nason]

should I clean the black bearings? or regrease them with wd40 or something?

[foozkillah]

should I clean the black bearings? or regrease them with wd40 or something?

Yep... If you have the time, or can stand without foos for a bit, I recommend you take them all apart, put them in a bowl, spray WD40 on them and clean them all out with rags or paper Ts.  WD40 dries nice and clean..  It also removes any silicone buildup which absorbs dirt and other gunk.

If you don't have a plastic hexagonal bearing wrench, that's ok... just carefully use a vice-grip to turn them, and when you reassemble, make sure you don't overtighten them.  Also, you can usually see or feel which side of the outer bearing insides the rods have been riding on... you can make sure they're riding on fresh plastic on the outer bearing.  This way, by reversing the outer bearing, you can add life to them.  Unless one or both (upper and lower) outer bearing insides are too worn, and the rod moves loosely within them.  You have to replace those...  For weekend and emergencies, some owners switch worn bearings from the 3bars and 2bars (the most used) to the Goal bar, where it doesn't affect play too much.

[Rios]

NO!!!!! DO NOT PUT WD40 ON YOUR RODS OR BEARINGS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

just use soap and warm water to clean your bearings, and a silicone based lubricant for the rods. WD40 will gum up and corrode the rods and bearings! It is oil based and is not good for those parts!!! I used to play DYPs at an old bar when I first started playing and they had a can of WD40 next to the table for lube and it only worked for like 2mins and then they were stickier and the bearings were falling apart! DO NOT USE THAT STUFF!!!

You can get silicone from the shop section of this site or go to Tornadofoosball.com

[bbtuna]

I am usually with Killa but NO WD40 Rios is right as rain...I never use anything but hot water on any part of the table...if the bearings are so gunked up hot water won't cut it, I would use dish soap until they were totally cleaned and then rinse with hot water until there is absolutely no residue

you have to buy Silicone which is the right weight...don't waste your time trying to save a few penny's, just get it the Silicone from this sight

Buy the small pocket version from here and a big 8oz refill from Tornadofoosball.com...the small bottle is the perfect applicator

small applicator...worth more than its weight in gold and will last for years (the bottle of course)
http://foosdirect-store.stores.yahoo.net/fooslube.html

Large bottle for refills - this will also last at least 2 years
http://tornadofoosb.powweb.com/store/page9.html

On the bearings - what Killa said is true however, I will give this caveot...unless the table has been played on a ton, and it sounds like it hasn't, then rotating the bearings isn't needed

the other thing is, when a rod is riding on a brand new bearing I find it isn't at its best for a while until it gets "broken in" which means enough friction for the rod to sort of seat...this is when the rods are smoothest

I always hesitate to rotate bearings for this reason...unless there is an obvious visible problem, there is not a reason to rotate IMHO

[foozkillah]

Whoa Whoa Whoa!!

What is this needless confusion?  I never recommended lubing up nason's rods with WD40!

The WD40 is for when and if nason decided to remove the bearings and clean them out!!!  I've also used it without problems (even on those horrible Tornado rods that kept shedding its plating) to clean the rods and bearings, even with the rods still on the table.  I would of course wipe them dry, and then re-lube them with silicone.

He had better use WD40 for removing bearing gunk, because using silicone would be pretty idiotic!!  And it's also what I would and have used to clean out the rods disassembled from the table!  Soap and water?  They don't do crap for some gunk, and if water gets in a crack or micropore in the the plating that doesn't immediately evap like WD40, you're gonna pay for ignoring mother nature!!  Not to mention the harm from water getting on the surface and staying just a bit too long on it or the strip, especially on a humid day.

And I've been lubing up the rods on both my home tables and venue tables I've maintained since 1976, at my uncle's arcades in Honolulu and Manila, and in all weather and ambient temperature and humidity locations from:

Monterey/Salinas in North California
Glendale/LA/Pasadena & Solana Beach in South California
Golden & Boulder in Colorado
Ames, Marshalltown, & Des Moines in Iowa
Flint, Warren, & Detroit in Michigan
Columbus, Cleveland, Akron, & Warren in Ohio
Hermitage, Susquehanna, & Philadelphia in Pennsylvania
Glen Falls, Brooklyn, Saratoga Springs & Niskayuna in New York
Guam
Honolulu & Kauai in Hawaii
Manila in the Philippines

The standard "Tornado" lube is a pretty good median, but I found that in a colder or desert drier atmosphere, that that silicone grade dries and gunks up faster, so I use a .05 heavier weight.  In humid climes, I use a slightly lighter weight (.05 the other way).  These weights are so easy to get from any local hobby shop.... just do one step below and above.  One shop near me has 10-12 different weights for different purposes from RC racing wheel assemblies to robotic warriors to modeling and such.

In a clean, no smoking, air-conditioned family home rec room I use the slightly heavier weight (same as the original pure silicone TireShine spray, not the new crap), then standard or lighter as the weather gets warmer and more humid.  In a smoker's garage poker den, I use the lighter weight.  I sometimes use a gunshop PTFE bonder spray for any chipped or cracked plating areas, where the PTFE penetrates and bonds, and the nonsolvent emulsion dries... no fr*gg*ng water for oxidation!!!

[bbtuna]

Killa,

you are just crazy on this ...I have cleaned rods and bearings on all kinds of tables with all kinds of lube with hot water (and soap if needed) since the stone age with no problem...i still own my 1980 Brown Top which has only ever been touched with water (and Lemon Pledge of course) and I still have no issues

all you have to do is dry the stuff off...I was taught by my mentor to be a purist and use water only...I have cheated a little with mild soap and then retreated to the hot water to remove any possible residue in the most extreme situations...Jevat Meaha taught me this and you can not argue with him so that is the end of the story

the silcone available here will take care of this poor person, don't complicate his already complicated foosball start up with different weight silicones depending on dew count

[foozkillah]

I only mentioned the use of different silicone weights because I've maintained dozens of a tables over the years.   I agree that that may only be needed in trying to keep rods and bearings consistent, year in and year out.  And not necessary in a sealed protected non smoking den or basement environment.

Especially when cleaning bearings and rods after disassembly, I've found it's faster with WD40 for removing whatever was on the inside bearings surfaces or plated rods, , a quick wipeoff and then relubing with silicone.  No wondering or second attempts in case the water didn't do the trick.  Especially for outdoor tables like they had in Hawaii, Ohio and Manila!  Or places where pet hair would collect for months on the silicone or pledge and gunk up the bearings.  Why would I waste 10 minutes with hot water and/or soap, when 2 shots of WD40 and its done!  Wipe off the dislodged dirt, and the solution dries off quickly.

And if any part of the plating is peeling, flaking, or has a deeper scratch, you would still use hot water to clean it? I completely disagree.  Granted I've never seen that on a TS browntop, including the three I've owned, but I have seen that on the older TS greentops and older Deutsch Meisters.  Plus a lot of glass-topped outdoor tables. Any sign of rust, I would not ever use hot water on that rod.  And I've had to prep them for play, knowing it would be a week or two before a replacement came.  And even with the rods assembled, blasting the inside of the bearing with WD40  immediately removes any gunk and evaporates to prevent any harmful leakage into the surrounding wood or laminate encasing the bearings.

Now, on the other hand, if you have a way of cleaning the bearings (the ones that don't split like non-Tornados) on all the rods, with hot water while you have the rods in place?  That I would like to learn.  I still cannot abide cleaning the rods and/or bearings with hot, non-evaporating water....  That can only lead to small or even bigger condensed pools or spots in the wood or laminate seat of the bearings.  Especially in a cooler, airconditioned location.  They get in the sidewall structure and they warp the walls.

[Rios]

I have honestly never heard of using WD40 to clean bearings... I dont understand how WD40 evaporates completely if it is an oil-based product, now I have heard of water evaporating oddly enough... and of course after cleaning the bearings with warm water and soap you dont put them on soaking wet you dry them first which I would think is common sense...
As far as cleaning the table surface and rods I use a mixture of water and alcohol, which also evaporates...
I still stand by not cleaning bearings with WD-40... but to each their own

And as far as what type of silicone to use... be careful with some of the aerosol types cause alot of them are also oil based... just be safe and get the stuff from this site